We are particularly fond of the fixed R-21 door:
Showing posts with label windows. Show all posts
Showing posts with label windows. Show all posts
Tuesday, March 6, 2012
What NOT to do
Due to mounting pressures in other arenas, last week's blog post missed the mark. But we are prepared this week to offer a small round of funnies. Please always background check your contractor and make yourself aware of energy efficiency practices.
We are particularly fond of the fixed R-21 door:
We are particularly fond of the fixed R-21 door:
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Heat Load Calculator
A while back we posted a series on the mechanics of calculating the heat load of your home. At the end we promised to offer up an Excel file that is set up for you to do your own calculations without getting a headache or hand cramp
The calculator comes pre-filled with info from our Houston 2448. Everything in light yellow can be modified. The file or the rest of the cells are not locked. This should be considered open-source, AKA modify at your own risk. If you enter any values into white cells, you may destroy formulas. There are also no fail safes or error checking in here. Double check your work.
There are 7 components listed: slab, floor, walls above and below grade, windows, doors, and roof. Each of these has inputs for area and R-value. Note that windows should be input as U-value. When inputting wall area, don't take windows or doors into account. They are automatically deducted from the wall area in the calculations. Outside design temperature can be modified for the first four items; remaining values are derived from those.
All the work is shown on the following columns. The UA value, Δt and Btu/hr values are shown. Indoor temp can be changed to your desired setpoint. To the right is a little table with all sorts of nerdy calculations in it. Percent of load tells you which component is losing the most heat. Cost/hr tells you how much it costs. In the example you can see that more than half the heat loss in this house is through the walls. Of course! There is only R-15 in the walls! You can also see that increasing to R-21 doesn't do much for that factor. Increase the walls to R-30 and you can get that component down to about 1/3 of the heat load. Still high. Note that the rest of the load percentages change as you change the area or R-value of an item.
Lower down on the page is a place to take leakiness of the house into account. Input your target or measured ACH50 as well as volume of the home. You should only change the HC if you know what you're doing.
The final input is for number of bedrooms or potential bedrooms. This little calc will determine internal gains from humans. It takes the number of bedrooms and adds 1 person per ASHRAE standards. If there will only be two people living in your 3000sf house, enter one bedroom for kicks.
Total peak heating load is given near the bottom of the sheet. The final table gives an idea of how much of what types of heat is needed to keep the house comfortable. A forced air unit size and efficiency can be entered. As you can see, even this is WAY too big for the house. Even 2 1kW cadet heaters will do fine. In this case we would recommend a 500W heater in each of the bedrooms and bathrooms with a 1kW in the great room. Still a bit much but at least reasonable. Perhaps a mini-split heat pump would do for efficiency as well as adding some cooling if you are in the South.
This calculator should be used for entertainment purposes only. No guarantees about the results or performance of this tool are made or implied. If you break it, you bought it. If you find errors, please feel free to let us know. If somebody who knows javascript is bored, we would be thrilled to turn this into an online tool.
The calculator comes pre-filled with info from our Houston 2448. Everything in light yellow can be modified. The file or the rest of the cells are not locked. This should be considered open-source, AKA modify at your own risk. If you enter any values into white cells, you may destroy formulas. There are also no fail safes or error checking in here. Double check your work.
There are 7 components listed: slab, floor, walls above and below grade, windows, doors, and roof. Each of these has inputs for area and R-value. Note that windows should be input as U-value. When inputting wall area, don't take windows or doors into account. They are automatically deducted from the wall area in the calculations. Outside design temperature can be modified for the first four items; remaining values are derived from those.
All the work is shown on the following columns. The UA value, Δt and Btu/hr values are shown. Indoor temp can be changed to your desired setpoint. To the right is a little table with all sorts of nerdy calculations in it. Percent of load tells you which component is losing the most heat. Cost/hr tells you how much it costs. In the example you can see that more than half the heat loss in this house is through the walls. Of course! There is only R-15 in the walls! You can also see that increasing to R-21 doesn't do much for that factor. Increase the walls to R-30 and you can get that component down to about 1/3 of the heat load. Still high. Note that the rest of the load percentages change as you change the area or R-value of an item.
Lower down on the page is a place to take leakiness of the house into account. Input your target or measured ACH50 as well as volume of the home. You should only change the HC if you know what you're doing.
The final input is for number of bedrooms or potential bedrooms. This little calc will determine internal gains from humans. It takes the number of bedrooms and adds 1 person per ASHRAE standards. If there will only be two people living in your 3000sf house, enter one bedroom for kicks.
Total peak heating load is given near the bottom of the sheet. The final table gives an idea of how much of what types of heat is needed to keep the house comfortable. A forced air unit size and efficiency can be entered. As you can see, even this is WAY too big for the house. Even 2 1kW cadet heaters will do fine. In this case we would recommend a 500W heater in each of the bedrooms and bathrooms with a 1kW in the great room. Still a bit much but at least reasonable. Perhaps a mini-split heat pump would do for efficiency as well as adding some cooling if you are in the South.
This calculator should be used for entertainment purposes only. No guarantees about the results or performance of this tool are made or implied. If you break it, you bought it. If you find errors, please feel free to let us know. If somebody who knows javascript is bored, we would be thrilled to turn this into an online tool.
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Historic Fail
If you've seen Istockhouseplans' portfolio lately, you may have noticed a pattern. We're pretty crazy about historic styles. Large wood, texture, built-ins, house bling, etc. all play a part in the way we design. But our design only covers part of the scenario. We can design all we want, but the final product is left to the builder. We can spec out materials and such but the fact is that the permitting jurisdiction only cares about structural and code issues. As well they should. Historic review boards will care about such matters. In fact, we were recently privileged to sit in on and testify in front of a historic review board for a private commission we are working on.
While the historic review board was amenable to both historic-ish styles and the builder's pocketbook, we were a little disappointed that they didn't even discuss certain issues. Some of these we think are crucial to distinguish between a true classic and a blatant reproduction. While we mentioned some key issues a few years ago, we think that there are three that should always occur on a reproduction or historic remodel:
Windows. Look at an old house. Where are the windows located? They are generally inside the wall. Now look at most new homes and answer the same question? The windows on the outside of the wall. A little 2-3" nudge makes a huge difference. So how do you install a new flange window inside the wall? One way is to frame your openings 3" larger each direction and then install a 2x4 subframe inside the 2x6 frame. The window then gets mounted to the subframe and floats inside the wall a few inches. Cut down on all the extra wood by integrating the 2x4 subframe as part of the structural load path. Another option is to purchase tip-in style retrofit windows. Cost may be a factor in this case.
Siding. Have you ever wondered why a substandard recladding of an old home looks so disappointing? Think texture and relief. First, old homes did not have one type of siding. Two are minimum. Even if both styles are lap and the difference is 4" vs. 8" reveal, it can make a house pop. The biggest problem in our opinion is the relief of fiber cement lap siding. How thick is the bottom edge of yesteryear's lap siding? Darn near 1/2". Now look at the specs of Hardi-plank. How thick? 5/16", barely more than 1/4". the stuff might as well be flat. That tiny little edge looks puny, like trying to do 5/4x6" bargeboards. Hey Mr. Hardie! Have you ever considered putting a lip on the edge of that stuff to give it a stronger look? If we ever get to build, we will not use that stuff. Who cares if it lasts 100 years. That's 100 years of puny looking disappointment. "What will you use then, tough guy?" What indeed. Glad you asked. Wood. Wood lap siding with a 1/2"+ edge to it that makes the house look like it has been around forever. Prime 6 sides and paint the visible sides. Lots of work, yes, but the result is amazing and the durability just as good as Hardi.
Roofing. It used to be (back when I was a boy!) that the roof color was complementary to the color scheme of the house. Light grays, browns, even red, blue and green asphalt shingles gave interest to the color scheme below. Now it seems that most new homes are similar to the Model T. "Your roof can be any color you want, so long as it's black. Because I bought 3000 squares and I have to get rid of it..." Why are new roofs black anyway? Is it because there's some aesthetic about a sharp contrast to one of the 3 shades of camel that new homes are colored? We think it looks like a thick heavy black cap that smashes the house down and makes it look foreboding. It also invites heat to be absorbed into the attic. If you're building new historic or renovating, please don't use black.
If anybody out there can answer our concerns, we would love to hear. Add a comment to this blog and set us straight.
While the historic review board was amenable to both historic-ish styles and the builder's pocketbook, we were a little disappointed that they didn't even discuss certain issues. Some of these we think are crucial to distinguish between a true classic and a blatant reproduction. While we mentioned some key issues a few years ago, we think that there are three that should always occur on a reproduction or historic remodel:
Windows. Look at an old house. Where are the windows located? They are generally inside the wall. Now look at most new homes and answer the same question? The windows on the outside of the wall. A little 2-3" nudge makes a huge difference. So how do you install a new flange window inside the wall? One way is to frame your openings 3" larger each direction and then install a 2x4 subframe inside the 2x6 frame. The window then gets mounted to the subframe and floats inside the wall a few inches. Cut down on all the extra wood by integrating the 2x4 subframe as part of the structural load path. Another option is to purchase tip-in style retrofit windows. Cost may be a factor in this case.
Siding. Have you ever wondered why a substandard recladding of an old home looks so disappointing? Think texture and relief. First, old homes did not have one type of siding. Two are minimum. Even if both styles are lap and the difference is 4" vs. 8" reveal, it can make a house pop. The biggest problem in our opinion is the relief of fiber cement lap siding. How thick is the bottom edge of yesteryear's lap siding? Darn near 1/2". Now look at the specs of Hardi-plank. How thick? 5/16", barely more than 1/4". the stuff might as well be flat. That tiny little edge looks puny, like trying to do 5/4x6" bargeboards. Hey Mr. Hardie! Have you ever considered putting a lip on the edge of that stuff to give it a stronger look? If we ever get to build, we will not use that stuff. Who cares if it lasts 100 years. That's 100 years of puny looking disappointment. "What will you use then, tough guy?" What indeed. Glad you asked. Wood. Wood lap siding with a 1/2"+ edge to it that makes the house look like it has been around forever. Prime 6 sides and paint the visible sides. Lots of work, yes, but the result is amazing and the durability just as good as Hardi.
Roofing. It used to be (back when I was a boy!) that the roof color was complementary to the color scheme of the house. Light grays, browns, even red, blue and green asphalt shingles gave interest to the color scheme below. Now it seems that most new homes are similar to the Model T. "Your roof can be any color you want, so long as it's black. Because I bought 3000 squares and I have to get rid of it..." Why are new roofs black anyway? Is it because there's some aesthetic about a sharp contrast to one of the 3 shades of camel that new homes are colored? We think it looks like a thick heavy black cap that smashes the house down and makes it look foreboding. It also invites heat to be absorbed into the attic. If you're building new historic or renovating, please don't use black.
If anybody out there can answer our concerns, we would love to hear. Add a comment to this blog and set us straight.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Windows 2.0
Ever noticed a new house that tries to look old? Some look terribly fake. Some do a great job. But none of them quite grab the look. Driving around town, it's not hard to spot the infill lots that have brand new period houses on them. We can even tell the difference between a well preserved old house, a well remodeled old home, and a brand new "old" home. Why? What's the difference? The eyes always give it away. In this case, the windows. Windows are a big part of a home and they can have a big effect on the way the home looks.
What is the big difference between old and new home windows? Crappy white vinyl frames? Not necessarily as old windows are often painted white. Grids? Not all old windows had grids and newer windows have some passable grids. We tend to think it's depth. Ever look at an old window? It's part of the framing. Now look at a new window. It's tacked to the outside of the framing like a 'Post No Bills' sign. Am I right? Tell me I'm wrong.
The big difference is in the way window production has changed over the years. When the aluminum flange window arrived on the scene, it made window installation quicker and more forgiving. A non-square opening no longer had to be shimmed to accept an inset window. Now the window could be squared on top of the sheathing and interior trim would cover the other side of the error.
Even though the look has been lost to mass production processes, it's not too hard to bring the look back. The first option is with new inset windows. Sometimes touted as replacement windows, these wood or wood clad panes set inside the framing the way their ancestors used to. There is a price to be paid for these windows though as they are not economically on par with their face flange cousins.
The second option is to use the cheaper face flange windows but spend another 5 minutes on each opening. First, frame your opening to 3" larger than required. Then use a smaller 2x framing member to sub frame your main opening. If you are framing 2x6 walls, line it with 2x4. If you are framing double 2x4 walls, use a piece that is wide enough to cover your interior stud, your gap, and then a little. A 10" double 2x4 wall would require a 2x8 sub frame. Your flange window then mounts to this sub frame and voila! Your windows have the appearance of being integral to the framing instead of slapped on top. A little 5/4 trim around the edges and it's a work of art.
Another benefit to this approach is that your water management just got a lot easier. As long as you have a sloped sill on the outside and a planned drainage path, you're good for the long haul. The water above the window opening gets kicked out by a piece of Z flashing at the head trim.
C'mon, my grandma could do this!
Istockhouseplans is committed to quality design and we hope you'll extend this to your building. Contact us with any questions during your build process and we'll be happy to give you free consultation.
What is the big difference between old and new home windows? Crappy white vinyl frames? Not necessarily as old windows are often painted white. Grids? Not all old windows had grids and newer windows have some passable grids. We tend to think it's depth. Ever look at an old window? It's part of the framing. Now look at a new window. It's tacked to the outside of the framing like a 'Post No Bills' sign. Am I right? Tell me I'm wrong.
The big difference is in the way window production has changed over the years. When the aluminum flange window arrived on the scene, it made window installation quicker and more forgiving. A non-square opening no longer had to be shimmed to accept an inset window. Now the window could be squared on top of the sheathing and interior trim would cover the other side of the error.
Even though the look has been lost to mass production processes, it's not too hard to bring the look back. The first option is with new inset windows. Sometimes touted as replacement windows, these wood or wood clad panes set inside the framing the way their ancestors used to. There is a price to be paid for these windows though as they are not economically on par with their face flange cousins.
The second option is to use the cheaper face flange windows but spend another 5 minutes on each opening. First, frame your opening to 3" larger than required. Then use a smaller 2x framing member to sub frame your main opening. If you are framing 2x6 walls, line it with 2x4. If you are framing double 2x4 walls, use a piece that is wide enough to cover your interior stud, your gap, and then a little. A 10" double 2x4 wall would require a 2x8 sub frame. Your flange window then mounts to this sub frame and voila! Your windows have the appearance of being integral to the framing instead of slapped on top. A little 5/4 trim around the edges and it's a work of art.
Another benefit to this approach is that your water management just got a lot easier. As long as you have a sloped sill on the outside and a planned drainage path, you're good for the long haul. The water above the window opening gets kicked out by a piece of Z flashing at the head trim.
C'mon, my grandma could do this!
Istockhouseplans is committed to quality design and we hope you'll extend this to your building. Contact us with any questions during your build process and we'll be happy to give you free consultation.
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
Are you a Master Craftsman?
Hey Joe Builder, how would you define the quality of your work? Above average? Awesome! But it is statistically impossible for everybody to be above average. Better than most? It is also statistically impossible for everyone to be better than most everybody else. But I'm willing to give you the benefit of the doubt if you'll just answer a few questions:
1. What sort of measurement tolerance out of plane are you comfortable with?
A. Huh?
B. As long as it all comes together
C. As long as my eyeball doesn't notice
D. I am familiar with a crowbar and sledgehammer
E. Absolutely none! I don't know why it takes me a year to build...
2. What do you do with bowed studs?
A. Never seen one
B. Give 'em a kick
C. Crown 'em to the outside
D. Shims and a plane
E. I only use #1 grade lumber everywhere
3. How many dumpsters does it take to clear your site after a home is finished?
A. As many as it takes!
B. 3 or more
C. 1-2
D. I sort all of my waste for recycling
E. My purchase orders have a 0% overage estimate
Scoring: 1 point for each A answer, 2 points for each B, etc.
How did you do?
3-7 points: Please, for the environment's sake, STOP BUILDING!
8-10 points: You are the norm and could learn some things for a better bottom line.
11-14: Nice work buddy, our hat's off to you.
15: We bow to your craftsmanship but worry about your mental health.
Why does this matter? Because you could be saving money, energy, time, and materials by learning to build more energy efficient. Our details are a good start. Talk to your local utility or bookmark www.buildingscience.com to learn about more efficient building techniques. Especially now, your bottom line matters. Email us if you'd like to learn more.
1. What sort of measurement tolerance out of plane are you comfortable with?
A. Huh?
B. As long as it all comes together
C. As long as my eyeball doesn't notice
D. I am familiar with a crowbar and sledgehammer
E. Absolutely none! I don't know why it takes me a year to build...
2. What do you do with bowed studs?
A. Never seen one
B. Give 'em a kick
C. Crown 'em to the outside
D. Shims and a plane
E. I only use #1 grade lumber everywhere
3. How many dumpsters does it take to clear your site after a home is finished?
A. As many as it takes!
B. 3 or more
C. 1-2
D. I sort all of my waste for recycling
E. My purchase orders have a 0% overage estimate
Scoring: 1 point for each A answer, 2 points for each B, etc.
How did you do?
3-7 points: Please, for the environment's sake, STOP BUILDING!
8-10 points: You are the norm and could learn some things for a better bottom line.
11-14: Nice work buddy, our hat's off to you.
15: We bow to your craftsmanship but worry about your mental health.
Why does this matter? Because you could be saving money, energy, time, and materials by learning to build more energy efficient. Our details are a good start. Talk to your local utility or bookmark www.buildingscience.com to learn about more efficient building techniques. Especially now, your bottom line matters. Email us if you'd like to learn more.
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Flashers unite!
How many of you think that you can flash properly? Do you layer properly? Do you make sure potentially exposed parts get sealed off? Does anyone really know what's going on behind your exterior? Check out this video and learn to be a great flasher!
Expert carpenter, Carl Hagstrom, shows how to properly flash a window.
Expert carpenter, Carl Hagstrom, shows how to properly flash a window.
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