tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30900169684464687362024-03-12T20:06:17.065-07:00Istockhouseplans BlogNews and musings from the istockhouseplans.com website.Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.comBlogger169125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-65223244424992492016-01-12T05:00:00.000-08:002016-01-12T05:00:05.102-08:00Efficiency by Design - Logistics<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Of course, good design and material optimization are important but there's a third leg to stabilize the whole thing. Optimizing materials on paper is no good if the notes aren't followed in the field. You could create a precise cut chart that gets all but ignored unless your site is set up to accommodate the extra steps.<br />
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Of course you don't want it to FEEL like extra steps because the process will be ignored. Instead an existing step gets broken down into a simple process to make the whole site easier to manage.<br />
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What happens with off cuts and waste material? Likely it gets thrown into a big pile out in the mud and rain. Since most houses are built with 2 car garages, use that space. Inside that covered area designate several simple areas. One is for sheet goods, likely plywood or OSB. Another is for lumber scraps that are longer than 3'. A third for scraps that are shorter than 3'. Then a separate area for metal and fasteners. Why do this?<br />
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First, your framing crew may be using scraps already but they might be digging through the pile. Having to take time to dig through the pile could be discouraging when the boss is yelling to hurry it up. Much easier to grab a fresh piece of wood off of the pallets. But if the scraps are organized, it's pretty easy to hit the 3'+ lumber pile and find a long enough piece for a jack stud.<br />
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Second, the scraps will be better protected from the elements in the garage. Installing wet wood that will soon be covered with drywall is just asking for a callback. If that wood doesn't get dry enough it can host mold spores that will spread inside the wall. Don't risk this. Are buckets of nails and hangers kept out of the rain where they could rust? Otherwise it's money down the drain.<br />
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Third, costs are reduced. If you get to the point where you are buying 103% of the wood needed to build instead of 110%, how much could you save? Could you get it down to 101%? Good design is needed to help this out but good materials management is the obvious next step.<br />
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<a href="https://efficiencybydesign.wordpress.com/">Efficiency by Design</a> can help with not just the design of your home but the site management as well. Download these <a href="http://eepurl.com/bAoth1">free posters</a> to help organize your jobsite. For optimization of your existing designs, simply begin the conversation with an <a href="mailto:info@istockhouseplans.com?subject=Tell%20me%20more%20about%20Efficiency%20by%20Design!">email</a> or <a href="tel:503-765-6776">phone call</a>. We'll handle the rest.Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-25059970263081952782016-01-05T05:00:00.000-08:002016-01-05T05:00:16.564-08:00Efficiency by Design - Design<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The mere design of your house can have a big factor on your lumber bill. Think about the jogs and other dimensions in light of the dimensions of your materials. Are you attempting an 18" jog? Or worse 26"? Why is your floor 24'-6" wide?<br />
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If you're going to use materials, get the most bang out of each of them. What's the highest use of a wall stud? Precisely 24" of wall. That happens to work well for sheathing, trusses, joists and other members as well.<br />
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Yet in an effort to maximize footprints and profits, some homes may have dimensions that are less than optimal. Many designers and builders think in 6" increments. That works for a short bit until a house is suddenly 29'-6". What happened there? With a 16" or 32" floor joist or beam spacing, there's a little more than a perfect number of bays. A better number would be 29'-4". Over a 40' house those two inches represent a loss of less than 7sf. To build to a dimension of 29'-6" dictates that you might as well be building to a depth of 30'-8". In reality you're using the same amount of materials to do either. But now your building materials could support an extra 47sf of area. This is a loss.<br />
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How do you optimize this? First, design the footprint with 24" dimensions. Or at least let the trusses be optimized and use a 24" dimension perpendicular to the trusses. Think about your jogs. That 30" bay might need 3 trusses instead of 2; if only you could make it 24" deep instead. Worst case scenario, at least think in 8" increments.<br />
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But it's so much more than just building jogs. Think about your stairs. Is the location using the natural spacing of the floor joists? Or are you adding in 3 extra joists because the powder room says so? Could you redesign the powder room, nudge the stairs, and take advantage of where the joists want to be?<br />
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What about dormers and light wells? Do they comply with the natural 24" spacing of the trusses or are you buying 2 extra trusses to allow the opening to be over the front door? Can you either widen or narrow the dormer, or perhaps shift everything a few inches one way or another? Sometimes it's easier to be lazy and just buy the extra materials.<br />
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What are your interior room dimensions? Is the drywaller needing to deal with a bonus room that's 16'-2" wide? If the wall sheets are installed vertically, there's a 2" gap to fill. Cutting 2" of drywall is a pain. More likely it will get filled with mud. If the sheets are installed horizontally then the pain is a little less. Cutting a 4'-2" piece from a 12' long sheet still leaves a 7'-10" piece that is highly useful. But don't make your closet 7'-10" wide and expect the drywaller to be able to optimize that piece. At least you aren't making the room 12'-2" in the other direction, right?<br />
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All of these subtle changes can be overwhelming. But <a href="https://efficiencybydesign.wordpress.com/">Efficiency by Design</a> can optimize your walls to help you know what's what and what to cut. You want to stick to building. We can handle the design. Simply begin the conversation with an <a href="mailto:info@istockhouseplans.com?subject=Tell%20me%20more%20about%20Efficiency%20by%20Design!">email</a> or <a href="tel:503-765-6776">phone call</a>. We'll handle the rest.Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-32819460292841905702015-12-29T05:00:00.000-08:002015-12-29T05:00:00.878-08:00Efficiency by Design - Roofs<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After all the work of optimizing the rest of the house, you might think we could call it a day and cap our house. But wait, there's more! <a href="https://efficiencybydesign.wordpress.com/">Efficiency by Design</a> is a thorough study of EVERY part of the house. Why stop early when there's still a roof?<br />
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There are two main ways to build a roof. Historically one would use framing much like the walls and floors. The ceiling might be built of 2x4 or 2x6 to hold the ceiling finish while the rafters are 2x8 or 2x10. Sometimes beams are needed to support rafters, other times collar ties will suffice. It seems much more acceptable to install roof members at 24" o.c. when possible than it does other parts of the house.<br />
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A newer and sometimes cheaper and quicker way of building a roof is to use a truss. A truss is a pre-manufactured building component that has been engineered and optimized for its intended purpose. They are routinely designed to be used at 24" o.c. There are so many styles of trusses that a study on them and their techniques could be another blog series altogether.<br />
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And sometimes it's possible to mash up the two techniques. Part of a house may be trussed while another part is stick-framed to achieve ceiling designs that would be more costly or difficult in a truss. Even when a ridge changes direction, there is some minor overframing that is often stick built over one truss or another.<br />
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On some stick framed jobs you may find that installing a ridge beam puts a large point load where you would rather not have it. Specifying collar ties can eliminate the need for the beam as you are essentially creating an on site truss. Each rafter then becomes it's own load and shear resistant member. The collar ties don't have to rest at the top plate either. In many cases they can be elevated to enjoy a vaulted ceiling. You're likely installing ceiling joists anyway, why not have them be calculated as doing the structural work that they are likely doing?<br />
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The pitch of your roof can also be optimized. It is no more difficult for a truss manufacturer to create a 6.87:12 pitch roof than it is a 6:12 or 7:12. Why does this matter? What if the roof plane at 7:12 is 16'-5" from bird block to ridge? Your framer will now be trimming a 5" strip of sheathing to fill the gap unless you are planning on a ridge vent. Now it's a 3" strip.<br />
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But if you can reduce the pitch slightly you'll eliminate the need to involve extra labor for that little strip. Plus, the pitch will be dropped or raised so slightly that the change in aesthetic will barely be noticed, if at all. Of course there may be multiple runs of the same pitch so they should be best optimized for the longest run and possibly even take the other runs into account as well.<br />
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With trussed roofs there are a few ideas to consider. Have you or your designer ever considered the extra cost of the truss based on it's size? Anything with a dimension over 8'-6" requires an additional transportation permit. This is fairly common. But exceeding 14' with any truss dimension suddenly kicks in extra hardware or piggyback trusses. If your truss is 14'-4" then drop the pitch a little until it's at 13'-11".<br />
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Some roofs have so much dead space in them that it is a waste to leave it as attic. The living space that could be acquired is cheap square footage. You may not be interested in finishing it and that's okay. But installing attic or bonus room trusses with future access planned (or stairs and an insulated door already built in) gives your buyer the option to add space down the road.<br />
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These techniques are not difficult. We have spent years testing and honing them to find out what works and doesn't. Simply begin the conversation with an <a href="mailto:info@istockhouseplans.com?subject=Tell%20me%20more%20about%20Efficiency%20by%20Design!">email</a> or <a href="tel:503-765-6776">phone call</a>. We'll handle the rest.Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-18350347114902332822015-12-22T05:00:00.000-08:002015-12-22T05:00:00.102-08:00Efficiency by Design - Walls<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Walls are so misunderstood. In a world of "More wood is better!" it's hard to know what to cut. <a href="https://efficiencybydesign.wordpress.com/">Efficiency by Design</a> can optimize your walls to help you know what's what and what to cut.<br />
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What's in a wall? There are three basic parts: First are the studs that stand straight up. These are held in place by plates at the top and bottom. Finally all of it is tied together with sheathing. How do they work?<br />
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The studs have two tasks. The first is to provide some strength against gravity loads. The code asks for studs to be installed at 24" on center in most cases and 16" o.c. in other cases. This spacing ensures that weight is distributed evenly throughout the wall. Yes, we often poke openings in walls and install headers but those can be calculated to be the most optimal.<br />
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The studs have another job; they hold up your sheathing. More on that in a moment.<br />
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The plates tie all the studs together. There are usually a bottom plate (or sill plate) and two top plates. Once the studs and plates are connected, you have the basic skeleton for a wall. Of course there are other members such as sills, headers, cripples, etc., but we'll look at those later.<br />
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Once the skeleton is built, it can be sheathed. In higher seismic zones, plywood or OSB is used on all of the outside. In lighter seismic zones, exterior wood may only be on the corners with an occasional middle panel. Or maybe there's no wood sheathing, just let-in bracing. Then the whole house is wrapped in rigid foam and sided over.<br />
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So what can we eliminate? As mentioned, exterior wood sheathing can be stripped in lighter seismic zones. What about zones D and E? Why not remove studs? No? What is their purpose anyway? Mostly to hold sheathing in place which is acting as the wind and seismic deterrent.<br />
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How do you remove studs? In a multitude of ways. Sometimes a specification or note on the plan can naturally remove studs. Other times a little design sense can help keep other studs out of the house. In all but the first of a three story house you can use 2x6 @ 24" o.c. studs (Table R602.3(5)). But here's the thing. If you promise me you will align all your joists to stack over each stud, I can design you a 3 story wall of 2x6 @ 32" o.c. Of course, there are other issues that come into play such as sheathing type, but I hope you get the point.<br />
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So studs can be spaced out with no ill effects to the strength of the house. Where else can studs be removed? How about at a window? Between king studs, jack studs, trimmers and cripples, windows are over built. Here are some simple ideas:<br />
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<li>Remove the header</li>
<li>Instead of a trimmer and a jack stud, use a split trimmer instead</li>
<li>If the vertical space above the window is 24" or less, don't install cripples</li>
<li>Move or resize windows to make king studs out of the natural studs</li>
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There are several places where beams can be eliminated. In a two story home it is all but useless to add headers over 36" wide openings unless there is a large point load above. In most cases the rim joist above can handle the load just fine. Even a double top plate is an adequate header for smaller openings. Your designer can show this with calculations.<br />
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Of course windows and headers aren't the only place to reduce studs. Corner and T-wall intersections often use an extra stud or two each. The only use for these extra studs is as a backer for interior sheathing. If they're only backer, is there another product or method that can be used?<br />
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Certainly! But it depends on the experience of your drywaller. Many drywallers will fasten gypsum board to every piece of wood available. It's the fastening that's the problem. Fastening drywall to both sides of a corner and then each other heightens the susceptibility to cracking. Three different attachment points mean three different reactions and a higher risk of cracks.<br />
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But if only one sheet of drywall is attached to the wall and the other floats, what do you suppose will happen? The natural settling and movement of the wood will react against just one attachment and the cracks (and callbacks) will drop dramatically.<br />
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For this to work, there needs to be two things: A backer and a drywaller who knows where not to attach to. Simply using scraps of OSB for the backer is enough. Drilling or nailing into this backer is not advised as it can blow it out. This is where you need an established sub to do the job.<br />
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A final note about saving studs. Some simple design changes can reduce the amount of needed studs. If your designer is willing to make changes, modify jogs to be a factor of your framing spacing. Ideally that will be 24" but if you must, 16" is acceptable. At a minimum, thinking in 8" increments will be the most viable optimization of materials.<br />
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These techniques are not difficult. We have spent years testing and honing them to find out what works and doesn't. Simply begin the conversation with an <a href="mailto:info@istockhouseplans.com?subject=Tell%20me%20more%20about%20Efficiency%20by%20Design!">email</a> or <a href="tel:503-765-6776">phone call</a>. We'll handle the rest.Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-20454680129235037602015-12-15T05:00:00.000-08:002015-12-15T05:00:00.921-08:00Efficiency by Design - Floors<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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What's the difference between a floor and a ceiling? Not much. If it's unfinished below, it's a floor. If it's unfinished above, it's a ceiling. If it's finished on both sides it's a floor and a ceiling. With the exception of trusses (which we'll discuss later in Roofs), both are built very similarly.<br />
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One of the most common ways to build a floor is with beams and joists. Joists span between bearing walls on the outside and mid bearing beam lines. Joists are typically spaced at 16" on center though depending on the subfloor used, 24" is perfectly fine. If bonus room trusses are spaced at 24" o.c., there's no reason that the rest of the floor joists can't follow suit.<br />
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But subfloor is not the only determining factor in joist spacing. The size of the joists matters as well. If you are using 2x12 joists (which is fairly common) they can be used for 16' spans at 16" o.c. But if your span is only 14' long, those same joists can be spaced at 24" o.c. with no loss of performance.<br />
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Of course it's most beneficial if all of the joists have the same spacing. You don't want a section of 16" o.c. with another run of 24" o.c. and then back to 16" o.c. Trimming subfloor to match these changes takes time. An astute designer will make sure that the spacings break at even increments.<br />
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Depending on your workflow you might consider gluing and screwing the subfloor down. This practice can help take longer spans and make them more rigid allowing the joists to eke out anywhere from a few extra inches to an extra foot with no performance loss. Why overspan the joists like this? For one, you may be able to eliminate a beam that would otherwise be used to assist the joists only.<br />
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On the other hand, adding in a beam on a longer span may allow that one area to bump up to 24" o.c. spacing, allowing the entire floor to be uniform. It all has to do with the layout and having a designer look it over.<br />
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What about a case where the upper floor stops short of the lower floor? Designers often throw in a beam thinking that the load needs to be directed straight down. But it is not too difficult to calculate the joists to handle that perpendicular load. If it's not too great a load and close enough to the end, the beam can be removed and the joists can do the work. They would have been doing it partly anyway but they still would have had more tolerance for extra load.<br />
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We haven't discussed the other type of floor system, post and beam. This is very popular in the Pacific NW and limited in other parts of the country. Post and beam consists of 4x8 beams at 32" or 48" apart and set on footings that area 8' apart. These types of floors are heartily overbuilt. It makes for a very sturdy floor but this system can be optimized and still deliver sturdy performance.<br />
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The first consideration is the span of the beams. They are often 8' apart. If they are 4x8 @ 32" o.c. then they are quite capable of spanning 12' with very satisfactory performance. If 4x10 beams are used, they can span over 14' and 4x12 beams can surpass 16'. "But what of the extra load on each footing?", you may ask. The typical footing in this set up is an 18" diameter footing. These footings are big enough to handle 2650 lbs each. the 4x12 running 16' long has a load of less than 1200 on each end meaning the 18" diameter footing is still more than adequate.<br />
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<a href="https://efficiencybydesign.wordpress.com/">Efficiency by Design</a> can help you find these redundancies and save you time and money on your building process. Begin the conversation with an <a href="mailto:info@istockhouseplans.com?subject=Tell%20me%20more%20about%20Efficiency%20by%20Design!">email</a> or <a href="tel:503-765-6776">phone call</a>. We'll handle the rest.Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-52560121335201784052015-12-08T14:40:00.000-08:002015-12-08T15:28:53.015-08:00Efficiency by Design - Foundation<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The foundation of your house is perhaps the most important feature. Get it right and the whole house can last for a hundred years or more. Get it wrong and you'll be plagued with callbacks.<br />
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We at Istockhouseplans understand this concern. However we also like to weigh the other side of the balance with <a href="https://efficiencybydesign.wordpress.com/">efficiency by design</a> and optimizing your materials. We did the research and found out how to keep your house strong and save money at the same time.<br />
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Years ago we all got used to the idea of building a 12" wide by 6" thick concrete footing for a one story home, a 16"x8" footing for a two story home, and an 18"x10" footing for a three story home. This may not have been code but it was a good rule of thumb with a safety factor. The truth is that two story homes can use 7" thick footings and the 8" thick footing is fine for three story homes or portions thereof. The minimum widths are pretty close with 12"/15"/18" being required for one, two, and three stories. Perhaps we just liked rounding up to 2" increments. This all assumes a stick framed house on soil with a load bearing capacity of 1500 lbs or more.<br />
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But even this is a prescriptive approach. If you can show by calculations that a narrower wall can support the load (such as a gable end wall where the joists and trusses run parallel) then more concrete can be saved.<br />
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The biggest savings can be realized in the wall itself. The width of the concrete wall is often increased as the number of stories increase. But the code now allows for a concrete foundation wall thickness equal to the wall above with a minimum of 6". This means that even for a three story home built with 2x6 framing, the concrete stem wall need only be 6" thick. This means a savings of almost two yards of concrete on a single 40'x40' home.<br />
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Interior footings should also be considered. It is common for point loads to exert a force larger than the normal layout can handle. There are a couple of ways to handle this. One is to calc the footing size needed, understanding that the concrete contractor will generally overpour it. On interior foundation walls it should be preferred to specify a round footing. These are easier to form than a square for isolated footings.<br />
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Along the exterior however, square flared footings are more in keeping with how the foundation is built. It is common to make the footings square, even if it is 20" in a 15" footing. There's only an extra 2-1/2" inches of concrete on each side. A more advanced procedure would be to assume a rectangular flared footing that is no wider than the footing. If you can prove that a 15"x27" section of the concrete footing can handle the point load and tributary loads, no flared footing is needed.<br />
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These techniques are not difficult. We have spent years testing and honing them to find out what works and doesn't. Simply begin the conversation with an <a href="mailto:info@istockhouseplans.com?subject=Tell%20me%20more%20about%20Efficiency%20by%20Design!">email</a> or <a href="tel:503-765-6776">phone call</a>. We'll handle the rest.Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-52228536493751381062015-12-01T14:42:00.000-08:002015-12-08T15:28:34.874-08:00Efficiency by Design - Introduction<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We spent some time harping on material <a href="http://istockhouseplans.blogspot.com/search/label/best%20practice">optimization</a> a few years back. Touted as advanced framing, there was some push back on implementation. Framers get stuck in a rut, get used to a way of doing something, have a feeeeling that something performs better. Meanwhile, we designers sit behind our computers with our soft, smooth hands crunching numbers and telling you what to install. Your experience might differ from our callouts. And that's okay.<br />
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But since that time we've honed our razor to an even sharper edge. We've done away with the concept of advanced framing and developed a system known as <a href="https://efficiencybydesign.wordpress.com/">Efficiency by Design</a>. What's so efficient about it? Pop quiz, what would you rather save on most: material cost, labor costs, or loan interest?<br />
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How about all three! Istockhouseplans has scoured the code book looking for the most efficient way to build a house. We can save you money, materials AND time. We can do it <b><span style="font-size: large;">without any extra effort on your part</span></b>. How do we do this? Read on to find out or just scroll to the bottom to find out how to take advantage of this service.<br />
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All we need from you is a set of plans that you want us to optimize. For bonus points, tell us where the house is currently being built and we'll walk through to see the kind of work your framing crew does. Then we'll sit down with a pot of coffee and a sharp pencil finding all the ways to eliminate materials (which equal time and money). When we're done you'll get a big stack of papers.<br />
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The first thing you'll receive is a detailed cost effectiveness worksheet line iteming every place where we see need for improvement. You can use this to see what fits your business model, what would make the most impact, and how the code supports our findings. Or give it to your construction manager or financier.<br />
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The second thing you'll receive is a more complete seven to eight page report describing in more detail how to implement each strategy.<br />
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Third is where the fun begins. You'll get detailed framing layouts for the walls and any improved layouts for floors. These will tell your crew where every stick should go so there will be no question.<br />
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Still questions? Not a problem. We'll provide a set of additional details that can be left on site to make sure that, say, the ladder framing is understood and done correctly. If you want we'll even laminate them for you so they'll last for years. Or have the pdf version on your smart phone so you can show framers on site or forward to them.<br />
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In many cases we'll be able to eliminate beams. Less beams means less lumber, less connectors, less labor to install them. How can we do this!? Most of the time the beam is a perimeter header that is oversized or even unnecessary. We'll go into a little more detail in a future post. Since the plans examiners may be wary, we'll include a packet of beam calcs to prove our point. Turn them in for your permit.<br />
<br />
Finally you'll get our focused support for your project. We can come out to your site and spend as long as need be to educate the framers and any other subs on what needs to be done to save money. We can bring out pre-built models to have on site for reference. Heck we'll even pound a few nails to create a visible example.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">How to start saving money today</span></b><br />
<br />
Simply begin the conversation with an <a href="mailto:info@istockhouseplans.com?subject=Tell%20me%20more%20about%20Efficiency%20by%20Design!">email</a> or <a href="tel:503-765-6776">phone call</a>. We'll handle the rest.Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-34510582170935688002015-10-30T10:32:00.000-07:002015-10-30T10:32:02.815-07:00Multnomah County Property Tax AppealsThe news is out. It seems like Multnomah County is taking advantage of the accessory dwelling unit (ADU) situation in Portland. In 2010 the city decided to waive systems development charges (SDC) on new ADU creation whether that be converting a garage, carving space out of a basement or building a brand new structure. This was great as it enabled the building of thousands of permitted ADUs.<br />
<br />
(cue impending music)<br />
<br />
Now that we have a bajillion ADUs in the city Multnomah county decided to strike. Obfuscating state code they have interpreted a re-use as a re-zone and have JACKED property <a href="https://multco.us/assessment-taxation/property-assessment#MAV">taxes</a> up on many properties with newly built ADUs. The problem is that they are not only reassessing the improved value of the ADU itself but pretending as if the house is brand new construction as well. Even if it was built in 1924! The net effect is that Multnomah County is shooting themselves in the foot by killing the detached ADU industry.<br />
<br />
The Oregon State Department of Revenue has said that Multnomah County is probably doing it wrong but they aren't enforcing or overruling any judgements yet.<br />
<br />
Plenty has been written on this already and developments are appearing. The point of this brief is to not dig into more detail but to offer some solutions:<br />
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Read the main article at <a href="http://accessorydwellings.org/2015/10/22/the-death-of-detached-adus-in-portland-and-what-to-do-about-it/">http://accessorydwellings.org/2015/10/22/the-death-of-detached-adus-in-portland-and-what-to-do-about-it/</a> and subscribe to comments to learn about the latest developments. Kol Peterson is pursuing this very hard.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Contact the county staffer about this:</li>
</ul>
<br />
Dave Austin<br />
503-803-8616<br />
<a href="mailto:david.austin@multco.us">david.austin@multco.us</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>It's possible that a class action suit may arise.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Or <a href="https://multco.us/assessment-taxation/property-tax-appeal-process">appeal</a> the taxes on your own. I hope you're smart!</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>There are several <a href="http://www.oregon.gov/dor/ptd/Pages/exemptions.aspx">exemptions</a> you can file for including active military service, veterans, elderly, disabled, enterprise zones and non-profits. From personal experience it is not terribly difficult to become a non-profit. Doing the paperwork yourself is fairly cheap and you don't necessarily need 501(c)(3) status to be a state non-profit. But be sure that your non-profit use is accurate and that you are not the sole beneficiary. If you are housing your elderly folks, maybe you could set yourself up as a care home?</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>You may also be able to revert your taxes by connecting your ADU to your main house. Some restrictions may apply. The County may or may not reassess backwards. Contact us for a free assessment of your options.</li>
</ul>
<div>
Good luck! Hopefully we can just get this reversed and tar and feather those in charge.</div>
Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-86555683645044322862015-04-21T10:17:00.000-07:002015-04-21T10:17:00.114-07:00Creativity Unleashed!It's been a while since posting. The creativity muse hit hard the other night. Think 2x4 and back of the head. When consciousness was regained, this was on the computer screen:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C6wfThRPGl8/VTHjgsPmA8I/AAAAAAAAIoQ/8VL9rTxZa5o/s1600/tinier%2Bthan%2Bthou%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C6wfThRPGl8/VTHjgsPmA8I/AAAAAAAAIoQ/8VL9rTxZa5o/s1600/tinier%2Bthan%2Bthou%2B2.jpg" height="320" width="244" /></a></div>
After another muse attack (bag of doorknobs this time), this variant appeared:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wSln_2HSUrI/VTHjg64rRxI/AAAAAAAAIoc/vhIf_q6wIBM/s1600/mines%2Btinier%2B4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wSln_2HSUrI/VTHjg64rRxI/AAAAAAAAIoc/vhIf_q6wIBM/s1600/mines%2Btinier%2B4.jpg" height="320" width="244" /></a></div>
Both are available for sale on a <a href="http://www.cafepress.com/+mines-tinier+clothing">T-shirt</a> or, say, <a href="http://www.cafepress.com/+tinier_than_thou_tote_bag,1567449729">tote bag</a>. (Ice pack would be nice). This second one looks real nice on a <a href="http://www.cafepress.com/+mines_tinier_classic_thong,1567450310">thong</a>.<br />
<br />
<b>See the full collections on CafePress:</b><br />
<br />
<span data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body.0.$text0:0:$0:0">"<a href="http://www.cafepress.com/dd/98440231">Tinier Than Thou</a>" apparel and gifts</span><a class="" data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body.0.$range0:0" dir="ltr" href="http://www.cafepress.com/dd/98440231?hc_location=ufi" target="_blank"></a><span data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body.0.$text1:0:$0:0"></span></span></span></span><br />
<span data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body.0.$text1:0:$0:0">"<a href="http://www.cafepress.com/dd/98440242">Mine's Tinier</a>" </span></span></span></span><span data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body.0.$text0:0:$0:0">apparel and gifts</span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}" data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body"><span class="UFICommentBody" data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body.0"><span data-reactid=".c.1:3:1:$comment906624179360247_906927732663225:0.0.$right.0.$left.0.0.1.$comment-body.0.$text0:0:$0:0">Or if you prefer, <a href="http://www.zazzle.com/istockhouseplans">Zazzle</a>. </span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<br />Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-2786767403276390762014-12-23T09:42:00.000-08:002014-12-23T16:33:06.574-08:00A Brace of BracingAbout two and a half years ago we <a href="http://istockhouseplans.blogspot.com/2012/02/brace-yourself.html">promoted</a> Simpson Strong-tie's Wall Bracing Calculator. A new contender has entered the ring, APA (the plywood people). We played around with their new calculator and found it to be a little different than Simpson's. For one, the walls are adjustable more on the fly. With Simpson, you need to use their Java back button and re-enter inputs. With APA you can see changes as you go. The biggest difference is that you can enter each braced wall section and opening so that APA can calculate not only the total wall bracing needed, but each panel as qualifying or not. Pretty slick.<br />
<br />
To play around with it, go <a href="http://www.apawood.org/calculator">here</a>. You will need an account to access their website but it's totally worth it.<br />
<br />
And make sure you save your work (as an XML file, very cool) before exporting to a pdf. <strike>The pdf feature is temporarily broken</strike>. *edit* PDF function fixed. But the xml feature tells me that I could edit the hard data in a text editor, similar to a Google Earth kml file. Take that, Simpson!Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-67317864523121866432014-12-03T14:17:00.003-08:002014-12-03T14:17:47.088-08:00Ebook is Live!"200 Square Feet" our first ebook is now live and free for a limited time. You can find it on <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q94QF1O#">Amazon</a> or check here for other <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/200squarefeet/home/all-amazon-markets">international markets</a>. Free promo period will end on Saturday at midnight PST (UTC -8:00). If you are interested in tiny house ideas, details, and designs, please check out the book. We've included over a dozen different plans for 200sf and smaller shelters. We've also set up a support <a href="http://tinyurl.com/200squarefeet">website</a> for the book. Of course, your referrals and reviews are highly appreciated. Send us your questions and comments!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1V9g3f7sD4Y/VH-LzFqrSrI/AAAAAAAAIGo/_DRnCFq9lno/s1600/ebook%2Bcover%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1V9g3f7sD4Y/VH-LzFqrSrI/AAAAAAAAIGo/_DRnCFq9lno/s1600/ebook%2Bcover%2B2.jpg" height="320" width="207" /></a></div>
<br />Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-5616699754240371402014-11-19T10:59:00.000-08:002014-11-29T22:21:34.855-08:00Busy Elsewhere - AnnouncementFor the last few months we have been busy writing. Not on this blog, obviously. All of our wordsmithing efforts have been going into creating an ebook on tiny home design. Several designs are being created to go along with the book. We are aiming for a Cyber Monday release. Standard price will be $3.99 for the book in either pdf or Kindle version. But during Cyber Monday week (Monday through Friday) we'll be introducing the book for the low price of free. For five days only you'll have the opportunity to see our content for nothing out of pocket.<br />
<br />
What you'll get:<br />
Ideas, some building theory, comparisons of construction types<br />
<br />
What's not included:<br />
Building on a trailer (plenty of others doing that), detailed step by step construction guide.<br />
<br />
Stay tuned to this blog or use the subscribe feature on the right to be the first to know.<br />
<br />
*edit: if you want to add yourself to the notification list, visit <a href="http://eepurl.com/87lin" target="_blank">http://eepurl.com/87lin</a>Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-17962644403966860042014-07-31T11:56:00.000-07:002014-11-29T21:25:51.554-08:00Unbuckling Your WallsPop Quiz:<br />
<br />
Why does wall sheathing buckle?<br />
<br />
If you answered something like studs at 24" o.c., I'm sorry to disappoint you. The most common cause of wall sheathing buckling is because it wasn't properly gapped. We've hounded on this before. But now the APA has developed a mobile tool that will help educate builders on some of the most common building issues.<br />
<br />
See this and many more tips at the <a href="http://www.apawood.org/buildertips/">APA</a> website. Tambien en español!<br />
<br />
<ul style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: 12px; text-align: left;">
<li>
<strong>Prevent Buckling with Proper Spacing</strong>
includes spacing recommendations for APA Rated Sheathing, APA Rated
Sturd-I-Floor®, and APA 303 Siding. (Form M300, now available in
Spanish)</li>
<li>
<strong>Construct a Solid, Squeak-Free Floor System</strong>
describes how to prevent floor complaints and callbacks with proper
floor sheathing installation. (Form Q300, now available in Spanish)</li>
<li>
<strong>Minimize Nail Pops</strong> describes how
to reduce nail pops through recommended fastener selection and
installation. (Form S300, now available in Spanish)</li>
<li>
<strong>Storage and Handling of APA Trademarked Panels</strong> provides guidelines to help protect panels from damage in storage, during shipment, and on the job site. (Form U450)</li>
<li>
<strong>APA Panels for Soffit Applications</strong> provides information on recommended panels and spans for open and closed soffits. (Form N330)</li>
<li>
<strong>Finishing APA Rated Siding</strong> describes recommended finishes and application recommendations for APA Rated Siding. (Form Q350)</li>
<li>
<strong>Proper Storage and Handling of Glulam Beams</strong> provides recommendations for storage and handling of glulam beams. (Form R540)</li>
<li>
<strong>Minimize Glulam Checking Through Proper Storage and Handling</strong> provides tips for preventing glulam checking. (Form F455)</li>
<li>
<strong>Proper Installation of APA Rated Sheathing for Roof Applications</strong> provides step-by-step instructions for roof sheathing installation. (Form N335)</li>
<li>
<strong>Proper Selection and Installation of APA Plywood Underlayment</strong> includes information on selection, handling, installation and fastening APA Underlayment panels. (Form R340)</li>
</ul>
Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-75243233122933740742014-07-01T08:56:00.000-07:002014-07-01T08:56:25.642-07:00Installing Solar Now Even CheaperThe City of Portland, OR recently announced that they have been able to streamline their solar application process. This means that they were also able to reduce the fees on a solar permit. Press release follows:<br />
<br />
<strong><span class="aBn" data-term="goog_983402066" tabindex="0"><span class="aQJ">July 1, 2014</span></span>.</strong>
Effective immediately, the City of Portland Bureau of Development
Services will be reducing the building permit fees for Prescriptive
Residential Solar Permits from $554 to $263, a 52% reduction. In an
effort to be responsive to the Solar Industry concerns about existing
fees and the City’s goal of encouraging more sustainable energy sources,
the Bureau worked with Solar Industry representatives in an assessment
of the current fees and associated solar permitting and inspection
process. This evaluation realized efficiencies in the permitting
process, allowing the building permit fees associated with solar
projects to be reduced. Separate electrical trade permits continue to
be required and their associated fees remain the same.<br />
<br />
“We are hopeful that the reduction in building permit fees for solar
installations on residential structures will encourage more homeowners
to adopt this sustainable energy source, helping the City to meet
sustainability goals,” stated Commissioner Amanda Fritz. Bureau
Director Paul L. Scarlett added “This is a great example of where we
were able to work with industry partners to realize permit fee savings,
while maintaining cost recovery on the important life safety
and livability services the City provides through the building
inspection process.”<br />
<br />
Overall, the Prescriptive Residential Solar Permit fee retains cost
recovery levels for the Bureau, while achieving a level of review and
inspections that ensures compliance with applicable building, electrical
and land use codes. Field inspections will verify installations adhere
to approved plans, assuring safety and code compliance at the time of
panel installation.<br />
<br />
For more information, please contact Ross Caron, BDS Public Information Officer at <a href="mailto:ross.caron@portlandoregon.gov" style="color: #006699; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">ross.caron@portlandoregon.gov</a> or <a href="tel:%28503%29%20823-4268" target="_blank" value="+15038234268">(503) 823-4268</a>.<br />
<br />
End release.<br />
<br />
Interested in installing solar? Check that little blurb to the right and see if you could get <a href="http://share.solarcity.com/istockhouseplans">solar</a> installed on your home for little to no upfront cost. We had solar installed via a lease option and have been pleased with the results.Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-48440731571138813742014-05-28T13:57:00.000-07:002014-05-28T13:57:32.189-07:00Planned DowntimeIstockhouseplans will be changing web services over the next couple of days. Access to our website may be unavailable for a short time. We apologize for any inconvenience or undue migraines this may cause you. We promise it will be as good as new within a day or two.Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-7924078719108465612014-04-29T08:36:00.000-07:002014-04-29T08:36:30.887-07:00Raise Your HeelsThe APA (those wood people again) have issued a report on raised heel (AKA energy) trusses. Typical trusses do not allow full height insulation out to the outside edge of an outside wall. This means that the thermal envelope of your house is compromised where the roof comes down to the wall. This would be akin to the back of your neck where your coat doesn't quite reach up to nor does your wool hat reach down to. So consider raised heel trusses to be a scarf for your home.<br />
<br />
Builders harumph about several issues. Mainly plywood and siding and the extra cost. How much extra cost, Captain Pennypincher? Yes, it does cost extra. But could you perhaps use all those drops from your sheathing in that extra 8-12" space? But the taller blocking is also a somewhat valid point<br />
<br />
The report gives some simplified methods for securing the trusses without complicated blocking. The report is applicable for trusses with a heel between 15-1/4" and 24"; using continuous plywood (CS) as a prescriptive shear bracing method; for homes in seismic zones A, B, and C; for homes with wind exposure of 110mph or less; a whole list of other fairly typical conditions.<br />
<br />
In essence, plywood has been found to be adequate to replace blocking between the tall trusses for all but the top chord itself. That is, rather than using stacked 2x12's (illegal anyway) or a truss company built blocking solution, the plywood can extend to the bottom edge of the top chord. Typical 2x4 bird-blocking can be used on top of that.<br />
<br />
Thankfully, you as a builder do not have to figure this all out. Talk to your designer about simplified solutions for energy heel trusses. Here at <a href="http://www.istockhouseplans.com/">Istockhouseplans</a>, we're always happy to help you get the most bang out of your buck.<br />
<br />
See the full report here (an account or login may be required):<br />
<br />
http://www.apawood.org/level_c.cfm?content=pub_searchresults&pK=Form%20SR-103&pF=YesDaghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-42786736169413142022014-03-25T13:38:00.000-07:002014-03-25T13:38:25.693-07:00Two Point Oh!First off, we apologize in neglecting this blog for the past several months. The promised new <a href="http://www.istockhouseplans.com/">website</a> has run into more roadblocks than expected. However everything seems to be agreeing with one another now. We still have a few multi-family and garage plans to add yet. And we have a couple of new plans as well, as mentioned.<br />
<br />
The biggest change has been moving away from GoDaddy's hosting service and revamping the plans catalog to be more searchable by feature. Granted you can't pinpoint a plan that is 4000 square feet with 5 bathrooms (wouldn't be one of ours anyway). But with the exclusive number of fine plans we offer a single search term will narrow the plans down to a reasonable number. You might even find something unexpected!<br />
<br />
Please take a few minutes and let us know what could be improved. While the new site is highly functional, we are certainly open to more functionality and ease of operation.Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-69786076878201435972013-12-13T10:42:00.000-08:002014-04-29T08:37:29.838-07:00Advanced Framing Techniques in VideoThe <a href="http://www.performancewalls.org/">APA</a> (Y'know, the plywood people) recently unveiled a new video outlining advanced framing and how easy it is to achieve in your building. If you're still building at 16" o.c. with redundant studs at corners, windows, and T-walls, see this <a href="http://www.performancewalls.org/?content=app_pf_advancedframing">video</a>. These techniques actually ask you to do LESS in your building while achieving cheaper costs, a more comfortable home, environmental friendliness. If you still balk then I won't stop you from building substandard home. But for the future of your income, please at least consider staging these techniques into your repertoire of framing practices.<br />
<br />
By way of reminder, it's not the number of studs that keep your house from blowing down or siding from warping, it's the use of plywood gapped per manufacturer's specs that achieves strength and durability.Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-48067637688715328882013-11-19T16:27:00.000-08:002013-12-13T10:45:19.078-08:00Portland, Here We Come!Maybe we're not physically traveling, but we've created some new plans in celebration of this amazing city. Given the amount of land the planning commission has sway over, we saw the wisdom in customizing a plan to fit into an odd yet common scenario. If you own a 50x100 corner lot that was originally platted as two 25x100 lots, you are allowed to reclaim those two lots and split it any way you like. So long as each lot has at least 1800 square feet and each lot faces a different street.<br />
<br />
A common result is to have the original house face forward and a brand new 36x50 lot facing a side street. Setbacks and required outdoor spaces what they are, a slightly convoluted 26x35 footprint remains. Restricted cantilevers over setbacks are allowed but we chose to start with the confines and see what would happen. We ended up with 3 new plans.<br />
<br />
The <a href="http://plans.istockhouseplans.com/2013/11/theportland2635.html">Portland</a> and <a href="http://plans.istockhouseplans.com/2013/11/theportlanda2635a.html">Portland A</a> are both very similar plans with different facades. Both have 1758 square feet, an attached garage (rare for us), 3 bedrooms, 2.5 baths, great room. Essentially what you'd expect from a house these days. The roof and upper floor has been configured such that you could have a livable attic if you so chose.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n56OsBh5pCE/UqtVjkrmV0I/AAAAAAAAGXw/UcrlGD7L7uE/s1600/2635+front+left.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n56OsBh5pCE/UqtVjkrmV0I/AAAAAAAAGXw/UcrlGD7L7uE/s1600/2635+front+left.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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The <a href="http://plans.istockhouseplans.com/2013/11/theportlandb2635b.html">Portland B</a> is a slightly different beast that attempted to open up the main floor by adding a garage under. Alongside the garage and integrated into the house is an accessory dwelling unit, also beloved by the Portland Planning Commission. With the ADU it weighs in at 2046 square feet with 4 bedrooms and 3.5 baths.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p3LnbZlksLg/UqtVq-Lq-CI/AAAAAAAAGX4/1yVmDdJNp-4/s1600/2635B+front+right.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p3LnbZlksLg/UqtVq-Lq-CI/AAAAAAAAGX4/1yVmDdJNp-4/s1600/2635B+front+right.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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We are currently in the process of creating a brand new website. If you want a sneak peek you can click on the links above to see them in our new format. When the site is active in the next few days or weeks we'll make a grand announcement.<br />
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In the meantime, please tell us how we could improve these new offerings!Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-76204547405756743342013-08-20T13:54:00.000-07:002013-08-19T14:25:47.569-07:00What I Didn't SeeNormally we get to draw our plans on paper and then ship them off to a builder, never to be heard from again. But a recent purchase of the <a href="http://www.istockhouseplans.com/thearleta2850.html">Arleta 2850</a> was being built a couple of hours away and we just happened to be driving through very recently. The house is very nearly done just needing final trim and landscaping. It looks nice. But not what we pictured...<br />
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The house was built in a fairly lax jurisdiction so the builder was able to change some windows and structural issues without much fuss. Unfortunately the effect of replacing sets of single hungs with gigantic sliding windows killed some of the period effects. As did the rounded sheetrock corners, lack of wood trim, casing, and floors. Now it's understood that most people these days prefer carpet in bedrooms but we find it unappealing. The front porch was unfinished but at this point we're not holding out for a miracle.<br />
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Lesson learned? Not quite sure yet. While our plans are purposefully <a href="http://istockhouseplans.blogspot.com/2010/08/may-we-suggest.html">Spartan</a> on details, we do get disappointed when our vision isn't matched. Perhaps a set of SketchUp images showing our vision for the plan would be in order. In fact this plan has some <a href="http://istockhouseplans.blogspot.com/2012/06/getting-sketchy.html">rough sketches</a> ready, they just need some refining and uploading. Perhaps that's the rub.<br />
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If ever you purchase an <a href="http://www.istockhouseplans.com/">Istockhouseplans</a> house plan and would like some direction towards creating a Craftsman or period look, please <a href="mailto:info@istockhouseplans.com">let us know</a> and we'll be happy to put together a 3-d image for you. Just one more service that we offer.Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-47729760932614301612013-08-07T10:09:00.000-07:002013-08-07T10:09:39.161-07:00And Here's the First Pitch!Roof pitches are expressed in several ways depending on where you are building. Common in the United States is to use a number over 12. That is, for every 12 inches you go horizontally, a certain pitch will go up a certain number of inches. A 4/12 pitch roof goes up 4" for every foot it goes out. It's a rather shallow roof, easy to walk on but still sheds rain in all but the most of monsoons. It's not highly aesthetically pleasing though unless it utilizes 3' overhangs for a prairie style look. An 8/12 pitch roof CAN be walked on with the right shoes but also looks much better and can have livable attic space. This convention can be used for any number. A 16/12 roof is not unheard of. A 21/12 pitch roof will give you a nice equilateral triangle. Though most designers won't even think about it, it is perfectly acceptable to call out a 5.71/12 pitch roof if that would help make the roof plane 20' even instead of 20'-7.5".<br />
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In other countries where the X over 12 makes less sense due to the metric system, degrees of pitch can be used. This is almost simpler on one hand. But building it in the field requires a different skill set or tool. A high schooler might immediately understand a 30° pitch roof better than 7/12.<br />
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For your convenience here is a simple chart showing the comparison of roof pitches to angles:<br />
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<table style="height: 98px; width: 124px;">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>1/12
</td>
<td>4.76° </td>
</tr>
<tr><td valign="top">2/12</td><td valign="top">9.46°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">3/12</td><td valign="top">14.04°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">4/12</td><td valign="top">18.42°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">5/12</td><td valign="top">22.62°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">6/12</td><td valign="top">26.57°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">7/12</td><td valign="top">30.26°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">8/12</td><td valign="top">33.69°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">9/12</td><td valign="top">36.87°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">10/12</td><td valign="top">39.81°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">11/12</td><td valign="top">42.51°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">12/12</td><td valign="top">45°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">14/12</td><td valign="top">49.40°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">16/12</td><td valign="top">53.13°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">18/12</td><td valign="top">56.31°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">21/12</td><td valign="top">60.26°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">24/12</td><td valign="top">63.43°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">27/12</td><td valign="top">66.04°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">30/12</td><td valign="top">68.20°</td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top">45/12</td><td valign="top">75.07°</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Or you can use <a href="http://www.blocklayer.com/pitchangle.aspx">this</a> handy calculator.<br />
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<a href="http://www.istockhouseplans.com/">Istockhouseplans</a> strives to make the best use of your materials. If you would like us to analyze your plan and convert roof pitches to the most economical use of your lumber, please <a href="mailto:info@istockhouseplans.com">contact us</a>. Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-60888044458599081952013-06-18T08:29:00.000-07:002013-06-18T08:29:00.275-07:00Garage to ADU Conversion ProblemsWhen doing math it sometimes gets tricky in the conversions. How many litres in a pint? How many centipedes in a decibel? Likewise it can get tricky converting a garage to an ADU. Let's pretend that your local jurisdiction is not an issue and look at the inherent problems. (Note, please always consult with your local jurisdiction and get a permit where required.)<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iwyb5rW596Y/Ub_nem39NVI/AAAAAAAAFiU/WnUL8I3wrKg/s1600/g2a+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="283" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iwyb5rW596Y/Ub_nem39NVI/AAAAAAAAFiU/WnUL8I3wrKg/s640/g2a+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looks normal but the owners want more living space</td></tr>
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The first issue would be the floor. Most contractors would be happy to leave the floor as a slab and call it good. Maybe put a carpet over it. Nothing could be worse. You have no idea what's under that slab. It could be sand, gravel, or bare dirt. There may or may not be a vapor barrier under there either. Concrete is nothing more than a rigid sponge. Placing a carpet over the top just gives latent moisture somewhere to make dank and moldy. Don't do it.<br />
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Instead, consider laying some 6 mil vapor barrier down over the slab first. There is likely no insulation under there either so a few inches of rigid foam insulation would help to keep the dewpoint away from your materials that are susceptible to mold. After making sure all joints are sealed, overlay with a floating wood floor. Looks nice too.<br />
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Hopefully walls and ceilings would be straightforward. Always check for and mitigate any moisture in the walls, make sure the wiring is correct, and get inspected if necessary before applying sheetrock. Fill the space with insulation before making it inaccessible.<br />
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Another big issue to consider is the street appeal. The general rule of thumb is to throw some sort of window into the former garage door opening and frame around it. This looks wrong on several levels. First, the garage door header is generally not equal to other windows or doors. If the garage is freestanding then this is less of an issue. But if the garage door is near other windows and doors it can look discontinuous.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cAfW-jQcZkk/Ub_nno_dMsI/AAAAAAAAFic/-eRL5lkn0Y4/s1600/g2a+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="283" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cAfW-jQcZkk/Ub_nno_dMsI/AAAAAAAAFic/-eRL5lkn0Y4/s640/g2a+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slap in a window. Well, it's functional at least. Yeesh.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The expensive option is to cut out the header and make it the same as other headers on the front of the house. Another option would be to consider something such as two 3/0x5/0 single hung windows. The vertical aesthetic of the windows can help soften the horizontal issue. Another option which happened near here was to remove the garage door but build an inside wall that looks like a garage door from the outside. Windows were already on the side of the garage. This looked really nice. Unfortunately the local jurisdiction in all their wisdom required a window in the front. In vulgar terms it looks really dorky now. Perhaps a sliding glass door could be considered as another option.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5Orn5gsTp58/Ub_n0kXVQdI/AAAAAAAAFik/Ba8kA_NyHaA/s1600/g2a+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="283" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5Orn5gsTp58/Ub_n0kXVQdI/AAAAAAAAFik/Ba8kA_NyHaA/s640/g2a+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This looks a little more purposeful...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eiVog-iC43Y/Ub_n17RVw6I/AAAAAAAAFis/ctT3IVB2d9Q/s1600/g2a+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="283" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eiVog-iC43Y/Ub_n17RVw6I/AAAAAAAAFis/ctT3IVB2d9Q/s640/g2a+4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A cabin perhaps? May or may not work.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Another issue that can come up is the parking space. If you have less than 16' in front of your garage to begin with you may lose an onsite parking space. Some jurisdictions might think this a big deal. Others won't. A driveway going up to a blank wall does not fool the eye. We have grown to expect a garage door at the end. If that garage door is gone then the driveway needs to be reimagined in order for the eye to accept a wall at the end.<br />
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If there is room then landscaping or a bench will help soften the transition. The amount of concrete in the driveway could also be reduced. Leave a couple of 30" strips with 24" between them. Everything else should be returned to grass or other low, resilient plantings. If your budget allows, put in driveable molds or spaced pavers that allow grass to grow in between them. Some folks may not appreciate the look of parking a car in grass but it may suit others' needs.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xp3lRN99Snc/Ub_oDEYDF5I/AAAAAAAAFi0/hA2_If3Ji88/s1600/g2a+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="283" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xp3lRN99Snc/Ub_oDEYDF5I/AAAAAAAAFi0/hA2_If3Ji88/s640/g2a+5.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sweet Stickley, can we live here? That bay, that driveway. What lovely lines!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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If you are converting a garage into an ADU, <a href="http://www.istockhouseplans.com/">Istockhouseplans</a> would be pleased to give advice. Send us an <a href="mailto:info@istockhouseplans.com">email</a> or leave a comment below.Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-74346651629914760292013-05-28T12:36:00.000-07:002014-11-29T21:24:52.410-08:00Accessing Your Nether RegionsIf you build on a crawl space type of foundation then you're going to be required to provide access to that space for future maintenance and dead opposum removal. Most crawl spaces are required to have a minimum clearance of 18" from grade to the bottom of the framing members. This is not exactly a pleasant distance to crawl around in but it is at least workable.<br />
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What's in your crawl space? Well not much. But there is access to plumbing, mechanical (if you don't care about energy efficiency), and some electrical. There's also dirt, dust, spiders and possibly dead animals. Maybe there's a drain down there. It's possible to go years and years without ever having to go down there. But at some point a visit may be required.<br />
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Let's say your waste drain springs a leak. The waste drain doesn't exactly have crystal clear water in it. This will require a technician to crawl down into the space with tools and equipment to fix the problem and remove any extras that shouldn't be under your house. They likely will be up and down several times. So where is the most likely spot for the crawl access to be?<br />
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Believe it or not we often see other designers and architects place this crucial portal in the master bedroom closet.<br />
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Really? Can you see the disgust on our faces?<br />
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Not only that but apparently this practice is so ingrained in some designers (and builders even) that they will place the access here regardless of convenience. If the carpeted master closet is in the far corner of the house this means that dirty nasty crawl space detritus will be making it's way through most of the house starting with your wife's blouses.<br />
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We at <a href="http://www.istockhouseplans.com/">Istockhouseplans</a> believe that there is a better option. Our first choice is to place the access in a hall closet preferably where the floor is hardwood. However an even better choice would be to place the access outside of the house completely. In some parts of the country this is more common than others. Placing the crawl access on the outside of the foundation has several advantages:<br />
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<li>Dirty crawl space objects will never enter your house</li>
<li>The repairman won't have to worry about your wife's clean white laundry</li>
<li>Most important, the crawl space hatch can't leak warm air out of your house</li>
</ul>
Of course energy efficiency is important to us. Based on common practice we often place the crawl space access inside the house in the most convenient spot. However we thoroughly recommend that it be placed on an outside foundation wall. If you would like some assistance with details or placement, please feel free to <a href="mailto:info@istockhouseplans.com">contact us</a> or sound off in the comments below.Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-91871217101289491102013-05-14T10:23:00.000-07:002013-05-14T10:23:00.166-07:00From Paper to SticksWe were recently invited to an open house for a custom design we did. Actually, we didn't design so much as we did draft. The homeowners were very gracious but also very particular about what they wanted in a home. The result was a 2200sf plus beautiful one story home. Neighbors in the development quipped that they wished they had seen this plan in the builder's catalog. Even the builder himself was impressed with the final product. The development consists primarily of mid-priced builder specials with the customary 2 car garage, 2 story, 3 bed plus bonus, 2.5 bath. Our home was a little more subtle. We went for 3 car garage (partial tandem), 1 story (with nice steep roof for aesthetics), 3 bed plus office, and 2 bath.<br />
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While this is not a home that we would normally put in our catalog we were pleased with the results. So were the homeowners. Throughout the process we kept telling them that this will be THEIR home. The builder or subs will not be living in it for the next 10-50 years. THEY will. So don't get pushed around and be sure to get what you want. The homeowners kept a set of final plans, a 3-ring binder, and the builder on speed dial for the whole time. Every day they were on site checking progress. This was more out of excitement and available time than anything but scrutiny was also prevalent. When something was not done per plans a query was put out and it was quickly made right. Though our client probably did not read <a href="http://istockhouseplans.blogspot.com/2011/05/builder-vs-homeowner.html">this previous post</a> beforehand, they took it to heart.<br />
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The bad news of the whole deal? The washer and dryer were moved on-site and now partially obscure a passage. The good news? The homeowners were in by Christmas and the builder's crew got the week off.Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3090016968446468736.post-6424611817129585392013-04-30T15:22:00.000-07:002013-04-30T15:22:00.377-07:00Gained Some Girth, Have You?Of all of our plans there are a few that stand out as stellar. Maybe they don't have gorgeous granite countertops or three car garages. Maybe they're not opulent McMansions. But they do sell well. The <a href="http://www.istockhouseplans.com/themontavilla2532.html">Montavilla 2532</a> has been our second best selling plan. But it's not the plan itself that is always sold, it sometimes is the idea. We've several times been asked to add two more feet into the width of the plan. This is a great idea as it helps give some space to the garage and staircase.<br />
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In response to this we have released a cousin to the Montavilla called the Villamont (see what we did there?) The <a href="http://www.istockhouseplans.com/thevillamont2732.html">Villamont</a> and <a href="http://www.istockhouseplans.com/thevillamonta2732a.html">Villamont A</a> are both 27' wide versions of the Montavilla plans. We could have called these the Montavilla C and D but they are unique enough in their own right to get top billing. Both plans add 306 more square feet as well to round out at 1674 square feet.<br />
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This is a great example of an <a href="http://www.istockhouseplans.com/">Istockhouseplans</a> offering adapting to customers' needs. If you have any other changes you'd like to see in our plans, leave us a note in the comments or <a href="mailto:info@istockhouseplans.com">contact us</a> directly.Daghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16702225969943437639noreply@blogger.com0