Ebook is Live!

"200 Square Feet" our first ebook is now live and free for a limited time.  You can find it on Amazon or check here for other international markets.  Free promo period will end on Saturday at midnight PST (UTC -8:00).  If you are interested in tiny house ideas, details, and designs, please check out the book.  We've included over a dozen different plans for 200sf and smaller shelters.  We've also set up a support website for the book.  Of course, your referrals and reviews are highly appreciated.  Send us your questions and comments!

Busy Elsewhere - Announcement

For the last few months we have been busy writing.  Not on this blog, obviously.  All of our wordsmithing efforts have been going into creating an ebook on tiny home design.  Several designs are being created to go along with the book.  We are aiming for a Cyber Monday release.  Standard price will be $3.99 for the book in either pdf or Kindle version.  But during Cyber Monday week (Monday through Friday) we'll be introducing the book for the low price of free.  For five days only you'll have the opportunity to see our content for nothing out of pocket.

What you'll get:
Ideas, some building theory, comparisons of construction types

What's not included:
Building on a trailer (plenty of others doing that), detailed step by step construction guide.

Stay tuned to this blog or use the subscribe feature on the right to be the first to know.

*edit: if you want to add yourself to the notification list, visit http://eepurl.com/87lin

Unbuckling Your Walls

Pop Quiz:

Why does wall sheathing buckle?

If you answered something like studs at 24" o.c., I'm sorry to disappoint you.  The most common cause of wall sheathing buckling is because it wasn't properly gapped.  We've hounded on this before.  But now the APA has developed a mobile tool that will help educate builders on some of the most common building issues.

See this and many more tips at the APA website.  Tambien en español!

• Prevent Buckling with Proper Spacing includes spacing recommendations for APA Rated Sheathing, APA Rated Sturd-I-Floor®, and APA 303 Siding. (Form M300, now available in Spanish)
• Construct a Solid, Squeak-Free Floor System describes how to prevent floor complaints and callbacks with proper floor sheathing installation. (Form Q300, now available in Spanish)
• Minimize Nail Pops describes how to reduce nail pops through recommended fastener selection and installation. (Form S300, now available in Spanish)
• Storage and Handling of APA Trademarked Panels provides guidelines to help protect panels from damage in storage, during shipment, and on the job site. (Form U450)
• APA Panels for Soffit Applications provides information on recommended panels and spans for open and closed soffits. (Form N330)
• Finishing APA Rated Siding describes recommended finishes and application recommendations for APA Rated Siding. (Form Q350)
• Proper Storage and Handling of Glulam Beams provides recommendations for storage and handling of glulam beams. (Form R540)
• Minimize Glulam Checking Through Proper Storage and Handling provides tips for preventing glulam checking. (Form F455)
• Proper Installation of APA Rated Sheathing for Roof Applications provides step-by-step instructions for roof sheathing installation. (Form N335)
• Proper Selection and Installation of APA Plywood Underlayment includes information on selection, handling, installation and fastening APA Underlayment panels. (Form R340)

Installing Solar Now Even Cheaper

The City of Portland, OR recently announced that they have been able to streamline their solar application process.  This means that they were also able to reduce the fees on a solar permit.  Press release follows:

July 1, 2014.  Effective immediately, the City of Portland Bureau of Development Services will be reducing the building permit fees for Prescriptive Residential Solar Permits from $554 to $263, a 52% reduction.  In an effort to be responsive to the Solar Industry concerns about existing fees and the City’s goal of encouraging more sustainable energy sources, the Bureau worked with Solar Industry representatives in an assessment of the current fees and associated solar permitting and inspection process.  This evaluation realized efficiencies in the permitting process, allowing the building permit fees associated with solar projects to be reduced.  Separate electrical trade permits continue to be required and their associated fees remain the same.

“We are hopeful that the reduction in building permit fees for solar installations on residential structures will encourage more homeowners to adopt this sustainable energy source, helping the City to meet sustainability goals,” stated Commissioner Amanda Fritz.  Bureau Director Paul L. Scarlett added “This is a great example of where we were able to work with industry partners to realize permit fee savings, while maintaining cost recovery on the important life safety and livability services the City provides through the building inspection process.”

Overall, the Prescriptive Residential Solar Permit fee retains cost recovery levels for the Bureau, while achieving a level of review and inspections that ensures compliance with applicable building, electrical and land use codes.  Field inspections will verify installations adhere to approved plans, assuring safety and code compliance at the time of panel installation.

For more information, please contact Ross Caron, BDS Public Information Officer at ross.caron@portlandoregon.gov or (503) 823-4268.

End release.

Interested in installing solar?  Check that little blurb to the right and see if you could get solar installed on your home for little to no upfront cost.  We had solar installed via a lease option and have been pleased with the results.

Planned Downtime

Istockhouseplans will be changing web services over the next couple of days.  Access to our website may be unavailable for a short time.  We apologize for any inconvenience or undue migraines this may cause you.  We promise it will be as good as new within a day or two.

Raise Your Heels

The APA (those wood people again) have issued a report on raised heel (AKA energy) trusses.  Typical trusses do not allow full height insulation out to the outside edge of an outside wall.  This means that the thermal envelope of your house is compromised where the roof comes down to the wall.  This would be akin to the back of your neck where your coat doesn't quite reach up to nor does your wool hat reach down to.  So consider raised heel trusses to be a scarf for your home.

Builders harumph about several issues.  Mainly plywood and siding and the extra cost.  How much extra cost, Captain Pennypincher?  Yes, it does cost extra.  But could you perhaps use all those drops from your sheathing in that extra 8-12" space?  But the taller blocking is also a somewhat valid point

The report gives some simplified methods for securing the trusses without complicated blocking.  The report is applicable for trusses with a heel between 15-1/4" and 24"; using continuous plywood (CS) as a prescriptive shear bracing method; for homes in seismic zones A, B, and C; for homes with wind exposure of 110mph or less; a whole list of other fairly typical conditions.

In essence, plywood has been found to be adequate to replace blocking between the tall trusses for all but the top chord itself.  That is, rather than using stacked 2x12's (illegal anyway) or a truss company built blocking solution, the plywood can extend to the bottom edge of the top chord.  Typical 2x4 bird-blocking can be used on top of that.

Thankfully, you as a builder do not have to figure this all out.  Talk to your designer about simplified solutions for energy heel trusses.  Here at Istockhouseplans, we're always happy to help you get the most bang out of your buck.

See the full report here (an account or login may be required):

http://www.apawood.org/level_c.cfm?content=pub_searchresults&pK=Form%20SR-103&pF=Yes

Two Point Oh!

First off, we apologize in neglecting this blog for the past several months.  The promised new website has run into more roadblocks than expected.  However everything seems to be agreeing with one another now.  We still have a few multi-family and garage plans to add yet.  And we have a couple of new plans as well, as mentioned.

The biggest change has been moving away from GoDaddy's hosting service and revamping the plans catalog to be more searchable by feature.  Granted you can't pinpoint a plan that is 4000 square feet with 5 bathrooms (wouldn't be one of ours anyway).  But with the exclusive number of fine plans we offer a single search term will narrow the plans down to a reasonable number.  You might even find something unexpected!

Please take a few minutes and let us know what could be improved.  While the new site is highly functional, we are certainly open to more functionality and ease of operation.

Advanced Framing Techniques in Video

The APA (Y'know, the plywood people) recently unveiled a new video outlining advanced framing and how easy it is to achieve in your building.  If you're still building at 16" o.c. with redundant studs at corners, windows, and T-walls, see this video.  These techniques actually ask you to do LESS in your building while achieving cheaper costs, a more comfortable home, environmental friendliness.  If you still balk then I won't stop you from building substandard home.  But for the future of your income, please at least consider staging these techniques into your repertoire of framing practices.

By way of reminder, it's not the number of studs that keep your house from blowing down or siding from warping, it's the use of plywood gapped per manufacturer's specs that achieves strength and durability.

Portland, Here We Come!

Maybe we're not physically traveling, but we've created some new plans in celebration of this amazing city.  Given the amount of land the planning commission has sway over, we saw the wisdom in customizing a plan to fit into an odd yet common scenario.  If you own a 50x100 corner lot that was originally platted as two 25x100 lots, you are allowed to reclaim those two lots and split it any way you like.  So long as each lot has at least 1800 square feet and each lot faces a different street.

A common result is to have the original house face forward and a brand new 36x50 lot facing a side street.  Setbacks and required outdoor spaces what they are, a slightly convoluted 26x35 footprint remains.  Restricted cantilevers over setbacks are allowed but we chose to start with the confines and see what would happen.  We ended up with 3 new plans.

The Portland and Portland A are both very similar plans with different facades.  Both have 1758 square feet, an attached garage (rare for us), 3 bedrooms, 2.5 baths, great room.  Essentially what you'd expect from a house these days.  The roof and upper floor has been configured such that you could have a livable attic if you so chose.

The Portland B is a slightly different beast that attempted to open up the main floor by adding a garage under.  Alongside the garage and integrated into the house is an accessory dwelling unit, also beloved by the Portland Planning Commission.  With the ADU it weighs in at 2046 square feet with 4 bedrooms and 3.5 baths.

We are currently in the process of creating a brand new website.  If you want a sneak peek you can click on the links above to see them in our new format.  When the site is active in the next few days or weeks we'll make a grand announcement.

In the meantime, please tell us how we could improve these new offerings!

What I Didn't See

Normally we get to draw our plans on paper and then ship them off to a builder, never to be heard from again.  But a recent purchase of the Arleta 2850 was being built a couple of hours away and we just happened to be driving through very recently.  The house is very nearly done just needing final trim and landscaping.  It looks nice.  But not what we pictured...

The house was built in a fairly lax jurisdiction so the builder was able to change some windows and structural issues without much fuss.  Unfortunately the effect of replacing sets of single hungs with gigantic sliding windows killed some of the period effects.  As did the rounded sheetrock corners, lack of wood trim, casing, and floors.  Now it's understood that most people these days prefer carpet in bedrooms but we find it unappealing.  The front porch was unfinished but at this point we're not holding out for a miracle.

Lesson learned?  Not quite sure yet.  While our plans are purposefully Spartan on details, we do get disappointed when our vision isn't matched.  Perhaps a set of SketchUp images showing our vision for the plan would be in order.  In fact this plan has some rough sketches ready, they just need some refining and uploading.  Perhaps that's the rub.

If ever you purchase an Istockhouseplans house plan and would like some direction towards creating a Craftsman or period look, please let us know and we'll be happy to put together a 3-d image for you.  Just one more service that we offer.

And Here's the First Pitch!

Roof pitches are expressed in several ways depending on where you are building.  Common in the United States is to use a number over 12.  That is, for every 12 inches you go horizontally, a certain pitch will go up a certain number of inches.  A 4/12 pitch roof goes up 4" for every foot it goes out.  It's a rather shallow roof, easy to walk on but still sheds rain in all but the most of monsoons.  It's not highly aesthetically pleasing though unless it utilizes 3' overhangs for a prairie style look.  An 8/12 pitch roof CAN be walked on with the right shoes but also looks much better and can have livable attic space.  This convention can be used for any number.  A 16/12 roof is not unheard of.  A 21/12 pitch roof will give you a nice equilateral triangle.  Though most designers won't even think about it, it is perfectly acceptable to call out a 5.71/12 pitch roof if that would help make the roof plane 20' even instead of 20'-7.5".

In other countries where the X over 12 makes less sense due to the metric system, degrees of pitch can be used.  This is almost simpler on one hand.  But building it in the field requires a different skill set or tool.  A high schooler might immediately understand a 30° pitch roof better than 7/12.

For your convenience here is a simple chart showing the comparison of roof pitches to angles:

1/12	4.76°
2/12	9.46°
3/12	14.04°
4/12	18.42°
5/12	22.62°
6/12	26.57°
7/12	30.26°
8/12	33.69°
9/12	36.87°
10/12	39.81°
11/12	42.51°
12/12	45°
14/12	49.40°
16/12	53.13°
18/12	56.31°
21/12	60.26°
24/12	63.43°
27/12	66.04°
30/12	68.20°
45/12	75.07°

Or you can use this handy calculator.

Istockhouseplans strives to make the best use of your materials.  If you would like us to analyze your plan and convert roof pitches to the most economical use of your lumber, please contact us.

Garage to ADU Conversion Problems

When doing math it sometimes gets tricky in the conversions.  How many litres in a pint?  How many centipedes in a decibel?  Likewise it can get tricky converting a garage to an ADU.  Let's pretend that your local jurisdiction is not an issue and look at the inherent problems.  (Note, please always consult with your local jurisdiction and get a permit where required.)

Looks normal but the owners want more living space

The first issue would be the floor.  Most contractors would be happy to leave the floor as a slab and call it good.  Maybe put a carpet over it.  Nothing could be worse.  You have no idea what's under that slab.  It could be sand, gravel, or bare dirt.  There may or may not be a vapor barrier under there either.  Concrete is nothing more than a rigid sponge.  Placing a carpet over the top just gives latent moisture somewhere to make dank and moldy.  Don't do it.

Instead, consider laying some 6 mil vapor barrier down over the slab first.  There is likely no insulation under there either so a few inches of rigid foam insulation would help to keep the dewpoint away from your materials that are susceptible to mold.  After making sure all joints are sealed, overlay with a floating wood floor.  Looks nice too.

Hopefully walls and ceilings would be straightforward.  Always check for and mitigate any moisture in the walls, make sure the wiring is correct, and get inspected if necessary before applying sheetrock.  Fill the space with insulation before making it inaccessible.

Another big issue to consider is the street appeal.  The general rule of thumb is to throw some sort of window into the former garage door opening and frame around it.  This looks wrong on several levels.  First, the garage door header is generally not equal to other windows or doors.  If the garage is freestanding then this is less of an issue.  But if the garage door is near other windows and doors it can look discontinuous.

Slap in a window.  Well, it's functional at least.  Yeesh.

The expensive option is to cut out the header and make it the same as other headers on the front of the house.  Another option would be to consider something such as two 3/0x5/0 single hung windows.  The vertical aesthetic of the windows can help soften the horizontal issue.  Another option which happened near here was to remove the garage door but build an inside wall that looks like a garage door from the outside.  Windows were already on the side of the garage.  This looked really nice.  Unfortunately the local jurisdiction in all their wisdom required a window in the front.  In vulgar terms it looks really dorky now.  Perhaps a sliding glass door could be considered as another option.

This looks a little more purposeful...

A cabin perhaps?  May or may not work.

Another issue that can come up is the parking space.  If you have less than 16' in front of your garage to begin with you may lose an onsite parking space.  Some jurisdictions might think this a big deal.  Others won't.  A driveway going up to a blank wall does not fool the eye.  We have grown to expect a garage door at the end.  If that garage door is gone then the driveway needs to be reimagined in order for the eye to accept a wall at the end.

If there is room then landscaping or a bench will help soften the transition.  The amount of concrete in the driveway could also be reduced.  Leave a couple of 30" strips with 24" between them.  Everything else should be returned to grass or other low, resilient plantings.  If your budget allows, put in driveable molds or spaced pavers that allow grass to grow in between them.  Some folks may not appreciate the look of parking a car in grass but it may suit others' needs.

Sweet Stickley, can we live here?  That bay, that driveway.  What lovely lines!

If you are converting a garage into an ADU, Istockhouseplans would be pleased to give advice.  Send us an email or leave a comment below.